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Article ImageIn the world of prestige wines, the oldest Champagnes in the world represent a fascinating category, combining luxury, history and age-old expertise. These bottles, preserved in sometimes astonishing conditions, not only tell the story of a bygone era, but also reveal the secrets of their remarkable preservation. Thanks to winemaking methods perfected over the centuries in and around Reims, these old champagnes from legendary houses such as Veuve Clicquot, Juglar and Heidsieck retain their stunning taste and sensory characteristics, defying ageing and intriguing connoisseurs the world over. The recent discovery of shipwrecks containing bottles of these precious vintages reveals just how crucial a role temperature, pressure and light play in preserving champagne, adding a fascinating chapter to the history of winemaking.
In this article, we will uncover the mysteries surrounding these rare vintages, from their incredible discovery to the in-depth analysis that has enabled us to understand their exceptional longevity. We'll explore the unique properties of these old champagnes, detailing how factors such as fermentation, sugar content and the presence of copper have influenced their preservation over the centuries. A look will also be taken at the historical context of their production and cellaring, before examining how they differ from their modern counterparts, both in terms of taste and winemaking methods. In this way, we can not only appreciate the richness of taste and history of the world's finest champagne, but also understand the fundamentals of its unique ageing process.
In 2010, a remarkable discovery was made in the cold waters of the Baltic Sea, near the Åland archipelago. Divers found the wreck of a ship containing 168 bottles of champagne, probably dating from the late 1830s. The ship, a two-masted vessel carrying a variety of luxury goods, lay at a depth of over 50 meters. The underwater conditions, similar to those found in champagne cellars, played a crucial role in preserving the bottles. Total darkness and a constant temperature of between 2 and 4°C created an ideal environment for aging champagne, as long as the bottles and corks resisted seawater infiltration.
The first analyses were carried out by Philippe Jeandet, Professor of Food Biochemistry at the Reims Faculty of Science. He had the opportunity to analyze two milliliters of this exceptionally well-preserved champagne. The results were astonishing: the wine showed remarkable freshness with floral or fruity notes, and a lingering taste of tobacco and leather. These characteristics indicate not only impressive chemical preservation, but also an organoleptic quality that defies the centuries. These analyses confirmed that the champagne came from three famous houses: Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, Heidsieck and Juglar, the latter having disappeared in 1829, which underlines the age and rarity of this discovery.
Detailed analyses of the recovered champagne have revealed distinctive chemical elements that testify to the winemaking methods of the time. These include the presence of iron, from the metal containers used to add grape syrup, and the chemical signatures of the wood from oak barrels, used at the time in contrast to modern stainless steel vats. This unique composition contributed to champagne's exceptional keeping qualities. What's more, champagne contained around 150 grams of sugar per liter, which is considerably higher than today's standards, and reflects the tastes of the time as well as less controlled winemaking practices, particularly with regard to fermentation, resulting in a lower alcoholic strength of around 9.5°.
Tastings of the old champagne revealed an impressive organoleptic quality, with persistent aromas of tobacco and leather. These remarkably well-preserved characteristics surprised the experts with their freshness and complexity. Philippe Jeandet, analyzing these samples, noted a youthful freshness with floral or fruity notes, and was particularly impressed by the persistence of the aromas on the palate. These observations suggest that, despite age, champagne has retained a structure and taste characteristics that rival those of contemporary champagnes, while offering a unique insight into the preferences and techniques of theperiod.
In the 18th century, Reims, Épernay and Aÿ became the nerve centers of the champagne trade, with merchants such as Bertin du Rocheret and Chertemps laying the foundations for the future great Champagne houses. These pioneers, followed by iconic houses such as Ruinart and Moët, specialized their production in sparkling wine, requiring distinct know-how and considerable resources.
In the early 19th century, Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, the widow Clicquot, became an iconic figure in the industry. Taking the reins of the champagne house in 1805, she overcame the challenges of Napoleonic wars and trade embargoes to establish her brand as a symbol of luxury. Her bold strategy of exporting massively to Russia, despite the blockades, positioned Veuve Clicquot champagne as a favorite with the European elite, including the Tsar himself.
Champagne acquired a prestigious stature, particularly during the Congress of Vienna (1814-1815), where it cemented its reputation among the European aristocracy. Talleyrand, who served champagne from the Moët house at his lavish receptions, and the opulent festivities of Emperor Alexander I, where up to 1900 bottles were consumed, illustrate the importance of champagne in circles of power and diplomacy. This period marked a turning point, consolidating champagne's role not only as a luxury product but also as an instrument of soft power in European politics.
Fermentation methods have evolved considerably since the first champagne cuvées. Historically, alcoholic fermentation might have taken place in wood, but today it takes place mainly in stainless steel tanks, favoring greater purity and regularity of aromatic profile. This modernization reflects not only technological evolution, but also a quest for consistency in champagne quality. In addition, malolactic fermentation, which transforms malic acid into lactic acid, is now controlled to modulate the wine's acidity and enrich its profile with brioche and buttery nuances, a practice less common in the past.
Modern champagnes feature sugar and alcohol levels that differ significantly from those of their predecessors. Historically, the addition of sugar to the must was common practice to increase the spirituosity of the wine, aiming for a final alcoholic strength of 11.5° to 12°. Today, this practice is adjusted to suit contemporary tastes, which often prefer drier champagnes. The addition of liqueur d'expédition just before corking enables precise dosing of the residual sugar level, offering a range from brut (very dry) to doux (very sweet), which also modifies the perception of the champagne's body. Older champagnes, with their naturally higher sugar content, tended to present a rounder, windier character with age, contrasting with the freshness and lightness of today's champagnes.
What is the oldest champagne known to date?
The oldest champagne identified is a Veuve Clicquot dating from the 1830s. According to estimates by Veuve Clicquot, these bottles date from between 1831 and 1841.
Which champagne is considered the rarest?
Dom Pérignon Rosé de l'année 1953 is considered the rarest champagne. This exceptional wine has a limited production of just 12 bottles. One of them sold for $275,000 at auction.
What is the world's most expensive champagne?
The world's most expensive champagne is Heidsiek 1907, which sells for $45,000 a glass and $270,000 a bottle. Dom Perignon White Gold in Jeroboam format follows close behind, selling for $40,000.
Which champagne brand is considered the most prestigious?
Ruinart is recognized as the most prestigious champagne brand, chosen by 57% of respondents. It is followed by Roederer and Veuve Clicquot, which were chosen by 47% of participants. Otherrenowned Champagne houses include Moët & Chandon, Mumm, Krug, Deutz and Dom Pérignon.
In this article, we travel back in time to explore the fascinating world of the world's oldest champagnes, revisiting their history, their exceptional preservation methods and the mystery surrounding their remarkable longevity. We discovered how the unique preservation conditions and viticultural practices of the past have forged champagnes of impressive organoleptic quality, demonstrating that even after centuries, these effervescent wines retain their character and freshness. This journey is a reminder of the extent to which winemaking traditions, rooted in the terroirs of Reims and the surrounding area, continue to influence and shape the quality of champagnes produced today. The implications of these discoveries are not only relevant to champagne lovers and connoisseurs, but also to anyone interested in the evolution of the wine industry. They underline the importance of conservation, tradition and innovation in the wine aging process. As we contemplate the history and heritage captured in every bottle of the world's oldest champagnes, we also recognize the pivotal role of research and passion in perpetuating these liquid treasures. Wrecks and cellars continue to reveal their secrets, inviting us to continue our quest to understand and appreciate champagne, that precious nectar of the gods.
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